The Delicate Balance of Leaf and Fire: Longjing
China's flat-leaf green tea relies on the warmth of the pan and the freshness preserved in the cup.
Some teas reveal themselves at first aroma. Others gradually capture your attention: first the scent of fresh leaves, then a warm nuance reminiscent of chestnuts, a subtle sweetness lingering in the sip… Longjing's world unfolds in these subtle transitions.
The flattened shape of its dried leaves is the first detail one encounters with this tea. When they come into contact with water, the leaves loosen; a balance emerges in the cup where fresh herbal character and slightly roasted notes come together. What makes Longjing interesting is that it retains the green character of the leaf while also carrying the trace of fire.
Mama Ram's new tea, Longjing , is a gateway to one of China's deep-rooted green tea traditions. To truly understand it, one must look at the origin of its name, the transformation the leaf undergoes in the pan, and the details that emerge during the brewing process.
First a well, then a stream.
The name Longjing means "Dragon Well" in Chinese. The English name Dragon Well is also a translation of the same phrase. This name is closely associated with the tea culture that developed around Hangzhou in China's Zhejiang province, particularly around West Lake.
However, knowing the name of a tea is not the same as knowing the garden where it is grown. Not every product bearing the name Longjing can be assumed to come from specific gardens in the West Lake region. It is necessary to distinguish between the tea's production style, regional identity, and precise origin.
This distinction allows us to look more closely at the tea in the cup. The reputation carried by a name cannot replace recognizing the leaf itself. Harvest time, the plant material used, growing conditions, and processing skill can all result in different cups under the same name.
Longjing's historical geography provides a framework for the story. And the leaf in our hands fills in the space within that framework.
Staying green is also a labor issue.
Longjing, like other true teas, is produced from Camellia sinensis leaves. One of the key differences between it and black tea is that oxidation is limited early in the production process.
Enzymes present in fresh leaves play a role in oxidative transformations when the leaf tissue is damaged. The heat applied during green tea production largely inhibits the activity of these enzymes. Thus, the leaf does not undergo the advanced oxidation process seen in black tea production.
In tea terminology, the term "fixation" used for this stage actually describes a very concrete intervention: directing the transformation of the leaf at a specific moment.
In Longjing's traditional production, this process is carried out in a hot pan. Heat, time, and leaf movement are all important factors. The time spent in the pan affects both the appearance and aromatic character of the tea.
The hand behind the flat leaf
Longjing's characteristic flat shape is one of the visible traces of its production process. In traditional handcrafting, the leaves are turned, pressed, and shaped with varying movements on a hot surface. During this process, they lose moisture while approaching the thin, flat form we know today.
The resulting shape is not merely an aesthetic detail; it's a clue to how the leaf has been processed. However, a smooth, flat appearance alone isn't enough to definitively judge quality. The leaf's aroma, its balance in the cup, and its finish should also be considered.
When it comes to pan-frying, expecting an intense roasting flavor can be misleading. The balance sought in Longjing is for the fresh, herbal character to be perceived alongside warm, nutty nuances. When the fire obscures all the details of the leaf, the cup loses much of what it can tell.
Where does the smell of chestnuts come from?
Longjing recipes often feature terms like chestnut, roasted nuts, and fresh greens. These are not ingredients added to the tea; they are sensory metaphors used to describe the natural composition of the leaf and the aromas that develop during processing.
Some cups may exhibit a warmth approaching chestnut, while others may highlight notes of green beans, peas, or more general herbal aromas. Subtle floral notes and a sweet finish may also accompany this structure.
These shouldn't be thought of as a checklist that every cup needs. Tasting terms draw attention to specific aspects; they don't require everyone to describe the same aroma with the same name.
With the first sip, you can ask yourself simpler questions: What kind of texture does the tea leave in your mouth? Is it freshness or a roasted taste that comes first? What remains on your palate after swallowing?
Getting to know Longjing often begins with noticing subtle changes in the answers to these questions.
Bitterness, astringency, and sweetness.
Green teas are sometimes described simply with the word "bitter." However, bitterness and astringency are different sensations. Bitterness is a taste; astringency is a textural effect felt in the mouth as dryness or puckering.
In Longjing, water temperature, amount of leaves, and brewing time alter the balance of these sensations. A cup left to steep for too long in excessively hot water may develop an intense bitterness or astringency that overshadows the fresh and crisp notes.
This doesn't mean the tea's entire character is revealed in this way. Brewing the same leaf at a lower temperature and for a shorter time might allow other details to be perceived.
Sweetness here doesn't necessarily mean a sugary taste. Sometimes it's perceived as the soft aftertaste following a sip, sometimes as the roundness within the herbal character.
How should I brew the first cup?
Our starting recommendation for Mama Ram Longjing:
2–3 g of tea per 200 ml of water
75–80°C water
Brew for 2-3 minutes.
For the first brewing, strain and taste after two minutes. If you want a more pronounced cup, increase the brewing time or the amount of leaves in small increments in subsequent brews. Not changing both at the same time will make it easier to understand the reason for the difference in the cup.
Use a teapot or wide strainer that allows the leaves to open freely. Once brewing is complete, separate the tea from the leaves; even the small amount of water remaining in the teapot can continue to come into contact with the leaves and alter the taste.
It's also possible to re-infuse the leaves. Instead of looking for the same infusion in subsequent cups, pay attention to how the body and aromas have changed.
Longjin on the table
The pairing becomes more interesting when the chosen foods allow time to appreciate the subtle nuances of the Longjing. Light fish dishes, steamed vegetables, plain rice, and almond cookies are all good options to try together.
The nutty notes of tea can be paired with lightly roasted flavors. Its fresh, herbal side can be highlighted with simpler dishes. These aren't immutable rules, but rather starting points for relationships that can be established at the dinner table.
Drinking the first cup plain makes it easier to identify the leaf. Returning to the same tea later with a small snack might reveal a detail that wasn't noticed before.
What's left in the cup
Longjing's story begins where the leaf is gathered, takes shape in the pan, and unfolds anew when it meets water. Freshness, warmth, a slight roast, and delicate sweetness settle into a slightly different balance with each brewing.
At Mama Ram, we love these transformations when getting to know a tea. The relationship between what the dried leaf promises and what the cup reveals, the difference between the first sip and the last, the details that change in the next brew…
Try Longjing this way too. Look at the leaf, follow the rising aroma, and let the cup cool slightly. Along with chestnut notes, you might find fresh greens, a slightly roasted nuance, followed by a subtle sweetness.
Longjing is now at Mama Ram.
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